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Just wanted to share my projects with you. I finished a snow blade and a set of forks for my 410 loader. Both are low-budget, picked up the forks and the blade cheap and the steel was from scrap.

The forks came off a 1000# hand operated, hydraulic jack, lift truck. Got them for $10. They are supposed to ride on a 1" round rod, but the one on the forktruck was bent to heck, so I adjusted them to ride on a plate instead. Turned out pretty good. Lifted a pallet of bricks with no problems.

The snow blade came from an equipment dealer. It is a blade that clamps on the top of a road grader to "throw" the snow off the end, so you don't get a big windrow. Got the blade cheap and made the frame from scrap tubing. Bought skids and springs from a plow parts place. Works good, rolls the snow out pretty good. Even handled the 6-8" of wet heavy crap we got a couple weeks ago.

Enjoy!

Loader projects finished
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 4 Post by Craig Dashner

I have a 4100, and while I do not have a tiller, it is on my wish list!! What I have found it that this tractor is more powerful than deere give's it credit for.

rear blade: I have a 5' land pride. Good size. The tractor has more than enough POWER to pull it with all the dirt it can hold, but it does not have all the traction. With 6' you would be more tractionally challenged.

Mower: 5' 3point finishing mower. Have absolutely no problems mowing tall grass up a steep (approx 30 degrees) hill. I wouldn't hesitate using a 6' if I had the need for it.

Tiller: I would expect that a 5' model would be ok. I would like to get a 48" model, but those are a tough find locally (in the cheap brands). I will probably pick up one at Tractor Supply which means 60". Wider than I want, but I am sure the tractor can handle it.

Rotary cutter: Again, don't have one, but I would be very comfortable with up to 5'.

Have fun!!

New 4115 With 410 loader
John Deere Tractors
Replies 10 Post by Craig Dashner

Are all Deere 54" plows the same? I have seen some plows used from various Deere garden tractors for sale for pretty cheap (~$100). Can I just buy the Deere mount for my 4100 and use the cheap used blade to save quite a few bucks??

JD Snow Plow
Operating and Attachments
Replies 6 Post by Craig Dashner

I've had one for 3 years now. Only problem was a wire that came loose (dealer came out on a Saturday to find it/fix it). Other than that, flawless. Ditto on the stumps. This tractor just doesn't have the weight for it. I have cleared brush with the loader, up to 1.5" diameter. It takes a little time, but does it good. I cleared and leveled for a garage and cleared for a driveway. I have moved many yards of topsoil/mulch and stone for landscaping. I maintain 1/2 mile of gravel road (summer and winter) and mow the lawn with it. The loader is plenty strong for the tractor. The bucket will bend if you abuse it, but I havn't managed to do much more than scratch the paint so far. I have build a loader snowplow and pallet forks and used them without problems. I would expect that they would be a bit more extreme than just bucket work.

My only complaint is the cost of implements. I have a big wish list and all of them are expensive. At least they will last a long time when I finally do get them. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. Feel free to email if you have more/specific questions.

John Deere 4100 with 410 loader
John Deere Tractors
Replies 12 Post by Craig Dashner

Here is another idea to add to your pot. If you need water, look into buying a 500-1000 gallon plastic tank(they sell them at Tractor Supply or other farm type stores) , and add gutters to your structure and route the rain water into the tank. Then you will have the water source. I am considering on doing this with my barn to water the garden. I was thinking about elevating the tank to provide gravity feed for a hose.

Something to chew on......

Water System for dusty arena
Tractor Projects
Replies 3 Post by Craig Dashner

I made my own, but, for my 410 loader. Really easy, probably only 8 hrs of labor invested. All the welding done with a 110v wire feed welder. I got a pair of forks from a local equipment junkyard and used heavy angle iron for a frame. The forks I got cost me $100 and are the type that slide on a big plate (rather than suspended from a round pin). If memory serves me, they are 42"x3" forks. I can slide the forks to the middle so they touch each other and out past the loader arms. Used some handrail pipe cut in half for the top of the quick-tach feature. I "designed" them to carry 1000 pounds. I have lifted as much as my 4100 will handle with them with no problems. Pallets on uneven ground IS a problem, I used to work construction operating forklifts and it's a problem there too, even with $30,000 equipment, the solution is to put the pallets on level ground.

I am getting ready to make a second set of forks now. I found a smaller set of forks (this set only cost me $10 at a local scrap dealer) They are 24"x2" forks and weigh substantially less than my first set, came off a hand operated hydraulic pump type forklift/material handler with a 1000# capacity. With my 4100, I use up too much of my lifting capacity with the weight of the "big" forks. Once I get my small set finished, I plan to sell my bigger set for what I have invested in it.

Forks for a 420 loader
John Deere Tractors
Replies 13 Post by Craig Dashner

Something to consider: When I put one on mine (JD 4100) there are already 2 holes in the bottom of the ROPS for mounting of the JD rear light kit. Also, under the seat is an empty plug for said kit. I bought a trapezodial light from tractor supply, used the existing hole in the ROPS, ran the wire thru the ROPS and tapped into the plug under the seat. The rear light comes on with the headlights. I don't have seperate control, but I don't really need it either. The ease of installation far outweighs the lack of switch for that light. I am not sure if other brands come prewired for aftermarkets, but it would be worth looking.

Mounting lights to ROP
Parts and Repair
Replies 10 Post by Craig Dashner

I had that happen on my 4100 while mowing. I was at high rpm and is started clattering like it was about to throw a rod. I shut her down, tried restarting after a while and it was still doing it. Took it in under warrenty, sat at the dealers for 2 weeks waiting to get it looked at (it was spring and they were really busy), when they went to look at it, it wouldn't do it and they could find nothing wrong. The mechanic told me, "If it happens again, give it throttle, if it blows up, it will be fixed under warrenty, if it stops, you'll be ok" Has not done it again and it's been 2 years. He seemed to think that, based on my recolection ofit, that it got an gulp of air in the fuel.

Engine problem
John Deere Tractors
Replies 13 Post by Craig Dashner

Peters, all 4100's have 4wd.

Kevin, Weight would be good for traction. I plow a driveway and a private road in Michigan (Detroit area) with mine (4100, R4's, loader). I have used a backblade and a loader. This year I am upgrading to a loader blade (homemade one). I plan to make a weight for the 3pt. for use with the front blade. You can do what you want with no chains/no weight, but you will slip. Weight would help, and would likely be enough, as long as you don't have ice or really hardpack snow under the fresh stuff. With the loader pushing banks, the way you work the loader becomes important. I have found that if you start with the bucket on the ground, then slowly raise the loader as you start to slip, the weight of the bucket, the snow in it, and the snow being pushed up by it, gives you more traction to the front tires which helps the pushing. It becomes an art after a while. I think a weight box or platform (you can make one easy and cheap and use bags of qwick crete for the weight) on the back along with the art of working the loader should be ok for you depending on the steepness of your hill. You can always try it the first snowfall and then add weight and/or chains if you feel safer having them. I probably wont get chains (my kidneys don't like the ride).

4100 and snow
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Craig Dashner

Thanks!! I figured someone would know what would work or tell me not to waste my time. I think I'll go the clean and lube route and save the rattle can for the next job.

Repainting the underside of a mower deck
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 7 Post by Craig Dashner

I'm with Bird! I had horses step on my feet many times with no problems (maybe a bruise or two), until I was wearing steel toes once. The toe buckeled (bent) in on my foot (above the toes) and left one heck of a nasty spot on the top of my foot and ruined my boots on top of that. Same horse stepped on my feet many times without out causing damage. Steel toes did nothing but waste my money!!

boots
Tractor Projects
Replies 10 Post by Craig Dashner

I have a 4100 gear w/ loader and am happy with it. I use it to mow about 1 acre, and maintenace on 5 acres, maintaining and plowing 1/2 mile of private drive. This little tractor will do a lot!! I cant give you a Kubota comparison since I don't own one. I picked JD over Kubota based solely on dealers. Liked the JD dealer and disliked the Kubota dealer.

The tractor may not be best suited for digging for your wall project, but can do many other things. I have moved many yards of dirt, mulch, wood, gravel, etc with mine. Sure, it takes some trips to do it, but it beats the heck out of a shovel and wheelbarrow!!!! I've cleared a site for a detached garage (1 to 2 inch saplings and brush), striped the topsoil and leveled it for the slab and graded everything when it was finished. Next project is a driveway. You can go out and rent a dozer and do it in 2 hours or use a 4100 and do it in 8 hours. It all depends on you! Others here would not want to spend the time or worry about abusing/wearing out the tractor doing the job that another piece of equipment is better suited for (no offense to anyone). I don't mind, I bought it to be able to do the stuff, and given the time, it will do it!!

The two series tractors you mention will do you well. When deciding factor in the following: Dealer, is he going to give you good service? Attachments, ease of removal, putting on the loader, mower etc. Tractor itself, Is it comfortable to you, all controls within reach, easy enough to get on and off. I am sure there is more, but thats the main stuff.

Good luck!

JD 4100 v BX series
Operating and Attachments
Replies 38 Post by Craig Dashner

If it was your fault, I would suggest trying what you are suggesting, but since it was a company who did this, I would push for a correct fix. If I get the gist of what you are saying, the pipe was lifted outside the building, causing it to be lifted inside as well? If water pools in the droop, any debris, oil or grease will pool there as well and will likely cause a problematic drain (In my opinion). I think your best bet would be to have the concrete guy come in and saw cut the floor and remove a section to access the pipe and be able to replace it (make them put a new pipe in) to the correct grade. Make the cut to access the pipe as simple as possible (ie. cutting out a corner of the slab or a trench, stick to a 3 sided cut no zig zags). Make sure the material around the pipe gets compacted well, every 9"-12". Then pour concrete to patch. Good luck!

Plumbing Nightmare in New Barn
Home Improvement
Replies 19 Post by Craig Dashner

I am sure, someone more qualified than me will post, but I'll get you started. Yes, three point bail spears exist for cat 1 and above hitches. I know Tractor Supply Company sells them (you can search and find thier website). I have also seen bale spears for loaders, can't remember if they were a bucket addition or a replacement. It wouldn't be too hard, and probably cheaper to buy a 3pt and modify it to fit loader. Your tractor size, I am not sure. I gotta believe the 3 pt would handle it, but not sure about the loader. Those bales would push the center of load out from the loader making it seem heavier. I am sure, someone else can help you better!!

Moving round bales of hay with a Kubota
Kubota Tractors
Replies 9 Post by Craig Dashner

Front is definately more convienent!! I plowed 2 years with a rear blade, and it works, but it has its drawbacks. The 4100 does not weigh enough, and gets pushed sideways by the back blade with a heavy snow. The front has more weight on it and is less likely to get pushed over. I, at the end of the snow season, was in the process of making a quick tach plow to fit on my loader with the bucket removed. I found a place that had blades that were 5' or 6' wide and had a heigh arc on them. They were actually bolt on blades for a road grader. They bolt on top of the grader blade at the end, to sling the snow and send it out rather than windrolling it into a huge mound. I did not get much of a chance to try it last year, but the little I did, it seemed like it would work great!!! I can't wait for snow, especially with the 95 its supposed to hit today!! I bult a "trip mechanism" into it, as a safety feature, since I am slightly about a impact and its affect on the loader arms. I have $100 bucks in it, I just need to figure out some ski's for it. If you have the back blade, try it for a season. If you don't like it, a good couple days work will get something made up for you!

Snow Plow Front or Back
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Craig Dashner

If you are mowing 5 acres, I would suggest at least a 72". I run a 60" king kutter with my 4100 with no problems, and am pretty confident I could run a 72" with no problems. 5 acres is a lot of land to mow, I'd go as big as you can! I am considering switching to a mid mount (probably the 56" for cost reasons) but I am only mowing 3/4 acre with trees and flower beds. A mid mount would just make the job easier!

Which mower
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 9 Post by Craig Dashner

I have a 4100, I have the loader, and a 5' 3pt finishing mower. Plenty of power, does not even bog at all mowing thick grass up a fairly steep hill. The catalogs don't agree, but I would think you could use a 6' mower with no problems. As far as the loader, I would suggest getting it now, if you do not, at least get the DSCV, dual selective control valves(green term for loader controls). If you buy the loader later, all you have to do is bolt the mount points on and attach the hydraulic lines.

I bought a rear finishing mower, and am now wishing I would have got a belly mower, it's tough trying to find the money (and get permission from wife). If I would have rolled it in with the tractor loan, it would have been easier. This is more so important for a loader, more $$$. I don't think you will go wrong with any of the tractors blue, green or orange. Everyone has thier favorite brand, but they are all good. Climb around them, drive them, look under the hood, borrow them for a day(if they'll let you) hook it up to implements. Pay attention to where controls are and the ones you will use the most (loader controls, shift levers). I liked where the loader control was on the 4100. Very handy and easy to operate. Look at pedal locations. I have a gear model, but I remember when researching that some brand with Hydro, had the brake pedals on the same side as the hydro pedals which means you can't use brakes for steering. How easy is it to get on and off? Is the platform big enough? The 4100 with loader control is tricky entering and exiting from the right side, not that big of deal to me, but may bother someone.

I was amazed at how easy the 4100 gear was to drive. For being small, and having limited HP, it amazes me what this little tractor has done. I have had only minor problems and am approaching 3 years with it. My only complaint is the price of implements (my christmas list exceeds my wallet). You can't go wrong with any of them. Take your time and pick the one you like the most.

JD4100 or TC21D tips
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by Craig Dashner

The only leaking you should get is from the cylinder itself and that should be very little. When the pushrod is fully in the cylinder, it is immersed in hyd. oil, then when you extend the cylinder, most of the oil gets "wiped off" by the seal, but some stays on the push rod. This should only ammount to a drop every now and then. Lifting excessive weight should bog the engine or lift the rear before the system leaks. I have at times seen oil that I could not find the source and it never repeated. I look at these things like burps. Give it a little working time, and see if it persists. Wipe down anything oily or dirty to track the source if it happens again. Good luck!

Is this normal
Parts and Repair
Replies 5 Post by Craig Dashner

I am in MI also. I bought a 4100 2 years ago for my 5 acres. That little tractor will do a lot. You would be suprised. You have to prioritize your tasks. Mowing, you should be able to run a 5' rotary cutter with no problems, maybe even 6' but that might be pushing it. 2"-3" trees can be knocked over and pulled out, but it takes finesse. If you don't mind taking time you can do it. Mine, when pushing dirt and snow, runs out of traction long before running out of power. If the Ms. is going to be landscaping the loader is a must!!! The first 5 yards of topsoil will affirm this!! My wife agrees that it was a good purchase (she even moves dirt with it). If you are going to mow lawn, consider weight. The 4100 is pretty light, the 4200 + are heavier. If you are not going to mow lawn look at weight. The 4300 and 4200 weigh about the same, the 4300 gives you more HP, why not get more HP with same weight? A rear blade is a good economic solution, sure, a front blade is much better but compare $250 to $1500. You have to decide weather you want comfort or affordability.

Hope this helps!

Craig

Decisions decisions
Operating and Attachments
Replies 13 Post by Craig Dashner

The Hygard goes into the dipstick between your legs.

The GL-5 goes into the front axle dipstick.

I went and checked my 4100 manual (I was pretty sure but wanted to be certain before I told you)

When they say gearbox they mean the front axle and transmission/hydraulic is between your legs. Looking in my manual, all the dipsticks they show look like what I actually have on the tractor. Does your cover say "with gear transmission" on the cover? My manual has a OMM134595 J7 number on it. Did you get the wrong manual?

Transmission gear fluid
John Deere Tractors
Replies 3 Post by Craig Dashner